Types of facial peels: what are the differences and which one to choose
You open the cosmetologist's price list, and there they have almond, yellow, TCA, enzyme, and carbon. It's easier to figure out than it seems.
I'll explain the different types of facial peels , how they differ, and what to look for when choosing. The actual ingredients are still selected by a cosmetologist in Zaporizhzhia after an examination.
Why are peel names confusing?
Peels remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface and stimulate skin renewal. The indications are clear: dull complexion, uneven skin texture, pigmentation, post-acne marks, and fine wrinkles. Peels are also named for different reasons.
Some are named for the acid they contain: glycolic, salicylic, lactic, or mandelic. Others are named for the color of the solution. The "yellow" peel is a retinoic acid, meaning the solution has a yellow tint. The "bloody" peel gets its name from the red color of the solution, which doesn't contain blood. Still others are named for the brand or the device used.
What's more important for the skin is how deep the peel works and the recovery period. The depth is determined by the acid, its concentration, pH, and the time it stays on the skin. For example, TCA (trichloroacetic acid) provides a superficial or medium-depth peel, depending on its concentration.
Types of peeling by depth: superficial, medium, deep
The most useful division is by depth. All types of facial peels can be divided into three levels:
- Superficial peels work within the epidermis, the top layer of skin. These include most AHA acids (also known as fruit acids), salicylic acid, and enzymes. Recovery time is short.
- A medium peel penetrates the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis. A classic example is TCA in a higher concentration. Peeling is already noticeable.
- Deep peeling penetrates even deeper into the dermis. It's traditionally done with a phenol-based peel. This is a medical procedure with a long recovery period.
The deeper the peel, the more powerful the effect and the higher the risks, including pigmentation. For most needs, superficial peels are sufficient, although sometimes medium-depth peels are sufficient.
Types of peelings by method of action
The second division is based on the specific method used to remove cells. These are the same types of peels , only categorized by different criteria. Therefore, the groups overlap: chemical peels can be both superficial and medium-depth.
Chemical peels: acids and enzymes
The acid dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells, causing them to shed. Each acid has its own characteristics. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule among AHAs and penetrates quickly. Lactic acid is gentler and more moisturizing, often used for dry skin. Almond acid is larger and works more slowly, making it a favorite for sensitive skin. Salicylic acid dissolves in sebum and penetrates pores, hence its reputation for being beneficial for oily skin and acne. Retinoic acid peels are unique: they are a derivative of vitamin A, and peeling afterward is usually noticeable.
Enzyme peels use enzymes, such as papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple. This is one of the most gentle options.
Mechanical peeling
Here, cells are removed physically: with abrasive particles, brushes (called brossage), or microcrystals during microdermabrasion. A home scrub is also a mechanical exfoliation, the lightest kind. Mechanical exfoliation is usually avoided for active inflammation.
Hardware peeling: laser and ultrasound
Laser peeling vaporizes the upper layers of the skin with a beam, and the depth is determined by the machine's settings. Carbon peeling is a carbon gel combined with a laser. Ultrasonic peeling is the gentlest of this group, primarily cleansing the surface.
What's the difference between peels in practice: recovery and season
In short, how do peels differ in real life: how many days will you look "not for photos" and what time of year can you do them?
After a superficial peel, many people go about their business the same day. After a medium peel, the face becomes noticeably flaky, and it's best to avoid important meetings on these days.
The second difference is the season. After a peel, the skin becomes photosensitive, meaning it more easily reacts to sun exposure with pigmentation. Therefore, medium and deep peels are usually performed in the fall and winter. Some gentle peels, such as almond peels, are considered all-season. However, even after these, people should never leave the house without sunscreen (SPF).
Third, a course of treatments. Superficial peels are usually performed in a series of several procedures, with cumulative effects. The cosmetologist will determine the number of treatments and intervals after a patient examination.
Home peeling and peeling at a cosmetologist: where is the line?
Home remedies are weaker: the acid concentration is lower, and the pH is milder. This is designed to make them suitable for use without the help of a specialist.
Professional formulations are stronger, and a cosmetologist monitors how long to leave them on and how the skin reacts. Medium and deep peels are not performed at home. A common home-based mistake is applying an acid, retinol, and a scrub all in one evening. This "intensification" causes skin irritation.
Which facial peel is best: how to choose the right one for your skin
The most common question: which facial peel is best ? There's no one-size-fits-all peel; there's one that's right for your skin and its needs. Age is secondary; skin condition is the deciding factor.
Which facial peel to choose? Based on your skin type, you can find guidelines for choosing the right facial peel:
- Oily skin, enlarged pores, and acne-prone skin are often treated with salicylic acid.
- Dry skin - lactic acid and mild AHA.
- Sensitive skin - to mandelic acid or enzymes.
- A dull complexion and fine wrinkles from dryness usually start with superficial peels.
- Pigmentation and post-acne often require a course or deeper peel, and an in-person examination is essential.
If you've never had a peel before, start with the gentlest option: this way you can see how your skin reacts. Rosacea and psoriasis are a separate issue: during flare-ups, peels should be postponed, and it's best to discuss the choice with a dermatologist.
You can see what cosmetic procedures are available in Zaporizhzhia on the AlviBeauty cosmetology page.
Contraindications and post-peeling care
Peels are usually postponed in cases of pregnancy and breastfeeding, active herpes, inflammation, wounds, and irritation in the treatment area, a recent tan, acute infections, and fever. Be sure to inform the specialist about any allergies, a tendency toward keloid scars, cancer, and any medications you are taking, especially isotretinoin. Before the procedure, the cosmetologist may ask you to avoid active skincare products and sun exposure for a few days.
After the peel, apply SPF daily, even on cloudy days. Don't pick at the peels, as this may leave marks. While your skin is recovering, avoid baths and saunas and avoid adding acids and scrubs to your routine. If redness or burning persists, consult the professional who performed the procedure.
Frequently Asked Questions About Facial Peels
What is the most effective facial peel?
The one that best suits your skin's needs. Deep peels provide the most powerful results, but they also carry the most risks. Superficial or medium peels are sufficient for most needs.
Which peeling is best to start with?
Start with a mild, superficial cleanser: almond, lactic, or enzyme. This way, you can see how your skin reacts, and then move on to stronger formulas.
How often can you do peeling?
It depends on the depth. Superficial treatments are done in a series with breaks, medium-depth treatments are done much less frequently, and deep treatments are done in a single procedure. The exact schedule is determined by the cosmetologist.
Is it possible to do peeling in summer?
Gentle superficial peels are possible if you use SPF daily. Medium and deep peels are usually reserved for fall and winter.
How many days does it take for skin to recover after peeling?
After a superficial treatment, a couple of days usually suffice, and sometimes there are no marks at all. After a medium treatment, recovery time is noticeably longer. The exact time depends on the composition and the skin.
What should not be done after peeling?
Sunbathing and tanning beds, exfoliating, and steaming in a steam room or sauna. Scrubs and acids also wait until the skin has recovered.
Is it possible to do peeling at home?
Yes, with home-use products and strictly according to the instructions. Medium and deep peels are only performed by a specialist.